/ Christiane Dolva Törnberg - Head of Sustainability(永續經理)/
How would you describe Samlaren?
Samlaren is a project under our umbrella initiative Zero Waste. We consider waste as lost potential and Samlaren is a great example of how we can minimize waste by giving leftover fabrics new life.
你如何形容Samlaren?
Samlaren是我們「零浪費」(Zero Waste)倡議底下的一個計畫。我們認為浪費是潛在的損失,Samlaren讓我們看到,藉由賦予裁餘布料新生命,可以將浪費減至最低。
How is Samlaren a sustainability concept?
In our work within sustainability we look at every step of the process to see how we can minimize our footprint and work towards a zero waste goal. Material production requires a lot of resources, raw materials, energy, water and chemicals, as well as the emissions created along the way. With Samlaren our ambition is to find new use for existing leftover material and not let anything go to waste. By integrating sustainability as a vital part of the concept we open up for new innovative ideas.
Samlaren為何是個永續的概念?
我們在實踐永續理念時,會檢視製程的每一步驟,思考能如何減低足跡,朝零浪費的目標邁進。材質的製造耗費相當多的資源,從原物料、能源、水和化學物質,過程中的排放物亦相當可觀。藉由Samlaren,我們決心找到方法利用現有剩餘材料,不浪費一絲一毫。把永續的重要概念整合進來後,任何創新的點子我們都很歡迎。
How do you work with sustainability within Samlaren?
Simply by identifying potential waste and making sure the material comes into alternative good use. This in itself is quite sustainable. The materials we use are already produced according to our strict requirements on sustainability. Adding to that we of course also in this collection work on a design level to ensure durable, timeless and functional products with a long life span.
Samlaren用何種方式實踐永續理念?
就只是找出可能的浪費,確保這些材料換一種方式妥善利用。這種做法本身是非常永續的。材料原本就已經遵循嚴格的永續要求而製造,我們又進一步在設計上下功夫,確保產品的使用壽命長,是經久耐用、不退流行且高機能的。
How does this differ from how you work with sustainability within Fjällräven"s main collection?
The difference is that with Samlaren we rely on existing leftover material, based on what material we have available we set out to create the products. This as opposed to creating products and then producing the material. We still have the same pro- cess in place for integrating sustainability in each step of the production though.
這個系列跟其他Fjällräven主要系列在永續的實踐上有何不同?
不同之處在於Samlaren用的是現有的裁餘布料,是以既有材料為基礎,再去創造產品。這跟先創造產品再去生產布料完全相反。製作流程仍然一樣,但是會將永續性整合到每一生產步驟中。
What is the main challenge with Samlaren in terms of production?
I think the most challenging part is for the designer to maximize material use, this is done by calculating consumption of each color and material and then finding a construction that will maximize the use of what material we have available.
就生產而言,Samlaren遇到的最大挑戰是什麼?
我覺得最挑戰的地方是設計師必須將材料做最大的利用,他們必須計算每種顏色和布料的用量,設計出一種結構可以盡可能用到現有材料。
Is there a challenge in combining design with sustainability?
It is a challenge that we face in every product development. The most important thing is to make sure every product has a clear function and is durable in terms of quality and design to ensure a long lifespan. Usually a crucial part of ensuring that we fulfill our strict requirements on quality, durability and sustainability are the material choices..
設計結合永續有沒有什麼困難?
設計與永續的結合是研發新品都會遇上的困難。最重要的是確保所有產品的功能明確,在品質和設計上都滿足經久耐用的要求,確保使用壽命長。若要滿足我們對品質、耐久性和永續性的嚴格要求,材料選擇通常是關鍵。
How do you work with sustainability in the supply chain / overall at Fjällräven?
We work on selecting the most preferred materials, on impact of the production pro- cess of material and how it can be as resource-efficient as possible. We also work with ensuring good working conditions for all levels in the supply chain, by setting up clear requirements and keeping close contact with our suppliers.
Fjällräven對於供應鏈或整體上如何實踐永續理念?
我們努力選擇最理想的材料,重視材料製程產生的衝擊,也會思考怎麼樣節約資源。同時我們努力確保供應鏈各層級的工作環境良好,方法是制定明確規範並與供應商保持密切聯繫。
Do you experience an increased focus on sustainability among your existing customers?
Yes, absolutely. It is very encouraging to see that more and more customers are asking the right questions before their purchase. We can definitely see an increased interest on the topic of sustainability and that people are turning towards more sustainable products.
你們現有的顧客是否愈來愈重視永續了?
絕對是如此。愈來愈多顧客在購買前問對了問題,這十分令人鼓舞。我們確實看到消費者對永續議題愈來愈感興趣,轉而購買更為永續的產品。
How do you envision the future for sustainable fashion?
Within the foreseeable future I believe that we will see an even more conscious approach to consumption with increased demand for products with a long lifespan. Hopefully we will also see even more innovation in terms of both material and produc- tion processes to ensure products with as low environmental footprint as possible. I almost hope the level of innovation will be so disruptive that I will not even be able to envision what it will look like.
你如何展望永續時尚的未來發展?
我相信在可見的未來,我們會看到更有意識的消費行為,對產品的使用壽命更加要求。我們也期待看到更多材質或製程的創新,致力將環境足跡減至最低。我還真希望看到破壞性的創新,這樣子連展望都不需要了。
How do you envision this concept developing over time?
If we become as efficient as we want to be in our product devel- opment we will not have any leftover materials to work with, and that is perhaps a strange way of looking at the future for this concept, since that will mean that it becomes obsolete. However I believe that this concept will still be around for some time because at the moment the industry is not able to fully utilize all material in the production process. What we have learned through this project is that there is great potential for creating products from leftover material that is already out there.
你如何展望這個概念的未來發展?
如果產品研發可以達到我們想要的效率,有一天將沒有裁餘布料可用。以此方式展望這個概念的未來發展或許有點弔詭,意味著有一天這個概念將不復存在。不過我認為這個概念還要跟著我們一段時間,以目前的狀況,業界要將製程產生的材料利用殆盡並不可能。至少從這個計畫我們學習到,利用現存裁餘布料創造新品是有很大的潛力的。